November 10, 2004
The drive to San Miguel de Allende
First of all, don't do it in one day if you don't have to. We did!
It took almost 10 hours but we made it driving in the dark. We had to stop at one of our favorite towns, Compostela. If you have ever driven from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalahara it is right before you hit the toll highway after going over the mountain. This is a town untouched by tourist feet. The plaza is the Mexico you long for where people are just going through life day by day. The streets are spotless and there is a corner restaurant on the Plaza that serves the finest Mexican food, including banana milkshakes!! WOW. We stopped and sat in the Church and watched a Christining of the babies, days after observing Dios de Los Muertos...a religious festival that pays respect to the dead.
The Last time we were in this town we followed a funeral procession through the streets. These are wonderful moments that we don´´t seem to notice in our own country, but here they are big events.
On down the highway to San Miguel de Allende. The town has become a spot for the rich and famous but still retains its historical charm and beauty. What an amazing place. Street after street of colorful homes with beautiful carved doors and iron on the windows. The streets are cobblestone and there are at least four beautiful churches. All of this is tucked into the desert hillsides at over 6000ft in elevation.
We ate at one spectacular restaurant named Saffron. They make their version on a wonderful stuffed chili with pomegrante seeds, nuts and raisins that is a traditional dish in this area. I was stunned at the beautiful plate and the depth of the flavors. Phillip had a spinach salad that was equally interesting and light. The decor of the restaurant is very chic and modern and obviously fine dining has found SM Allende...and we couldn't be more satisfied.
Our Hotel, La Puerticita grew on us but got off on the wrong foot. It was very cold up on the mountain and the room was freezing! I heard that the creator of the inn had died a few years ago and his wife is running the business by herself. Over the few days that we stayed there it became evident that everyone was trying their best..they just weren't in sync. The pool was cold, the jacuzzi never heated up, the exercise room was out dated. Better to hike up the hill that it sits on. Which we did! The Inn is lovely had has a beautiful garden. Most of the people staying there were booked by tour groups.
the room rate is $168 per day...so its pricey. There seem to be many great clean small hotels in town that I would try next time.
So much more to tell...Would love to hear from anyone who passes this way..let me know you are out there!
Posted by sandra at 04:33 PM | Comments (0)
November 09, 2004
Welcome to my first blog entry
My hope is that all of you will enjoy following me and my husband, Phillip through our travels and give us some good feedback on places to see and restaraurants to visit along the way.
We will be giving you up todate information on the discoveries of our journey as it pertains to our industry. Restaurants and hotels seem to change constantly, so blogging seems like a great way to have a current travel guide book.
Our first journey was back to one of our favorite hotels, The El Camino Real in Puerto Vallarta. Guess what. The hotel was purchased by DREAM VACATIONS earlier this year. Say goodbye to the past, but the future is looking good for this old stylish hotel South of Town.
The new place is currently under renovation. The rooms should be completed by mid-December. The staff is under orders to make it work for the guests and it really shows. They are so friendly and accomodating. Even with a few bumps (our door key kept locking us out of our room and the plumbing was having a few problems while the construction was going on - which was from 7am till 10pm some nights) the
Hotel gave us great value and luxury for our stay.
Alejandro, a great young man from Mexico City, gave us Spanish lessons on the beach and by the pool. He was so helpful and took his teaching job very seriously. I picked up some new verbs and just had alot of fun talking to him.
Our morning breakfast staff were by far the most entertaining and gracious. Once they new we wanted to work on our Spanish they were always helping and playing with us. There was Carlos, the clown in the group, Fernando, Alberto, and Alejandro. These guys work so hard.
Their tips are pooled with the entire Hotel staff, as this is now an inclusive resort with all meals included in one price. We always tipped them separately. The Hotel was only 30% occupied due to construction, so we know these guys are having a tough time making it and they pick up other jobs at night to support their families. Sound familair?
There was a great concierge, Hector, who served as bell hop and any other hat that was necessary at the time. He logged people into the computer and grab the taxi and carried the bags. He spent three years, like almost all the staff did in the US learning the language and working hard and to return to their home country.
The food at the Hotel was above average. We had a great Mexican dinner the first night at Maria Bonita and met the young, self taught Chef who came out to our table. I had a killer stuffed Chile with scallops and shrimp in mole. And to think the entire bill was included.
They also include drinks and snacks at the beach, brought by food runners...all you want at your whim. The cost for this package is 150.00 per night. That's $75 per person. amazing value.
We ate in town at Marisma fish tacos almost everyday. This is the best taco in town and its' a tiny stand under a huge ficus tree run exclusively by her daughters and their friends. You get a fish taco for 110 pesos and shrimp for 120 pesos. Each one has a generous portion of fish plus shredded cabbage and this amazing secret sauce.
Also of note was Felipe's, an old family run place way up on the hill just South of town. We had a stunning view of the City with fireworks from the cruise boat and a Lobster/Shrimp platter for two that included crisp blanched and sauteed vegetable of broccoli, cauliflower, chayote and onion. I am so glad that Mexico is growing new vegetables. I had never seen Broccoli down here before. Phillip had the best pina colada he has ever tasted. It was one of those great restaurant experiences. The only thing of note is that it was very expensive. Equal to anything in SF. But worth every penny.
Posted by sandra at 09:04 AM | Comments (0)