November 27, 2004
A wonderful restaurant - Agraz
I have to fill you in on my lunch yesterday. I ate in the dining room of the Hotel Caesar in the Recoleta. The name of the place is Agraz, which means ice cream with almonds in spanish. The Chef named the place.
The food was really special. It started with the most amazing bread and three pats of butter...one herbed, one garlic, and one olive.
The breads were so light, but very cruncy and filled with grains. So delicious. The butter came at room temperature, just the way it should. One thing about butter in Argentina. Any small grocery store will carry 10 to 15 vartieties of butter in different packaging. The people here are European discent, so they know their butter and cheese. Its all good.
Back to the restaurant. I chose a salad of beet and radish micro greens with radicchio, and baby lettuces. The greens were dressed ever so lightly with a horseradish dressing. I mean it..it was sublime!
Next I had a skinnless chicken breast that was grilled crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It was sitting on some crispy potatoes sliced thin, a swirl of dried tomato relish with toasted pistachios and olives. On top of the chicken breast was a lathering of crushed herbs in olive oil..a take off on their chimmicurro sauce. The plate was attractive and well presented.
The service was performed by all women. Their outfits were so original..a cool fashion idea for someone opening in SF. They wear black baggie pants and a lounge length ..almost Nehru type of tunic. They carry a small bag over their shoulder where they place their pens and paper.
They were very attractive and professional but chic. These young girls really worked it as a team. The service was flawless. One woman seemed to be in charge of a large marbletop table where the food came off the line. I was sitting alone in front of the kitchen window watching the action as the place filled up with all kinds of people dressed to the nines on a Friday lunch. The service was quiet, and very austere. A true ballet performed by everyone in perfect balance. I tried to get a smile out of the cooks but didn´t get a wink or a smirk of any kind. These guys were serious.
So there is a fine dining element here that is matched with any great cosmopoitan city in the World. You can do the cafes on the boulevards or the upper class restaurants in the Recoleta and the Puerto Moreno. Its all delicious.
I´m looking forward to my next meal. Take care...hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving!!
Posted by sandra at 07:53 AM | Comments (0)
November 25, 2004
Missione Iguazu Falls and Five Star Hotels
We made it! we have lived to tell about our trip through the Jungle of Brazil,Uraguay and Argentina .
Our experience in the jungle was without a doubt a ´must see´ for anyone who ventures this far South. Iguazu Falls is part of a large National Park that has many well maintained trails to explore, jungle rides and boat rides to keep you interested. We took a tour because we were too lazy to figure out that you really don´t need a tour...just a map. Oh well , as part of my continual spanish lessons I followed a tour guide all day that didn´t speak a word of English. I praticed my broken Spanish and with some hand jive got the highlights of the story. There are HUGE waterfalls...amazing sounds of water and beautiful rainbows over the jungle. They have catwalks that take you right up the the edge of the water ...not for the faint at heart.
But it seemed that almost everytime I turned around I was in someone´s camera path for a picture. What does everyone do with all those photos of water?
The Hotel scene in Cataratas hasn´t caught up to the new loads of tourists who want to visit. We had trouble booking a reservation in advance. We lasted five minutes in our first ´three star´ Hotel that was booked for us through a travel agent in Buenos Aires.
We went directly across the street to Hotel Cataratas,billing itself as a´five star´ hotel. It was totally booked with French,Chinese and Brazilian tour groups to full capacity, but somehow, my husband convinced them to take us. There I was a long way from home, sitting around the blue pool listening to Madonna and Michael Jackson. However, Five Stars does not mean First Class. The food was not up to any of the fine dining standards I know of....so I won´t comment any further. Our room was large and clean but didn´t have the nice sheets or good towels or come with the services expected in a five star resort class. Internet access at the hotel was slow to poor and always busy. There was a constant movement of people coming and going from all over the World, so the attention to detail wasn´t really needed. I think we were the only Americans. All those little things one would expect from that five star rating. But we roughed it and got by. I think it actually grew on us over the three day stay. The grounds were beautiful with tropical flowers and large 8 foot gardenia bushes everywhere in bloom.
Early on we found one of the best restaurants in town called Los Quinchos. It has a fantastic menu of different salads and meats and an excellent wine list. All very reasonable on any budget. All the meats are cooked outside over wood and very tender and flavorful. the salads come with XV Olive Oil and balsamic vinegar made in Mendoza. The waiters wear black suits and there is live entertainment. Very charming.
After three days here you´ve seen it all. There is a mine where they pull semi-precious stones out of the ground, a preservation park telling the story of the unfortunate ecological damage to the jungle, and an excursion to the Jesuit ruins. The movie THE MISSION was filmed here.
After 4 days we hopped a plane and came back to the exciting life we love in Buenos Aires. We are trying another five star hotel in our new favorite city and will report on their five stars next time.
Posted by sandra at 02:41 PM | Comments (0)
November 21, 2004
The food in Buenos Aires is First Class
I thought I would tell you about our dining experience last night, because it is the standard of what we have experienced over and over again in this beautiful city filled with great restaurants.
We went to the newer section of town along the river front called Puerto Madero. They have renovated a group of very old warehouses into luxury office space and lofts and on the bottom floor and many wonderful newer restaurants. We tried El Mirasol del Puerto.
This is the classic Argentinian style of dining. Most items are meat...every cut of the cow...and pages of side dishes, salads, and vegetables. It reminds me of the Tadich Grill in that the food isn't messed with and everything is good. We had a delcious filet mignon
that we split and couldn't finish. We tried one of their typical meat sauces that they make by pounding herbs, garlic and olive oil and vinegar to a paste. We tried a Beautiful salad of watercress, mozzeralla, radishes, and a typical green called raduiccio (SP) that is bitter but great with their xtra virgin olive oil and a bit of salt. We had two traditional empanadas..one chicken and one with corn and onions. These little pies in pastry just melt in your mouth.
We ordered steamed vegetables and thinly cut french fries as side dishes. The only thing that I could comment on that needed improvement was the vegetables.
Since Phillip has been growing our produce at home we are hard to please when it comes to veges.
The entire bill would surprise you. It was a third of what you would pay in the US or anywhere abroad. The portions were big, more than we needed. The service was trained European style with a head waiter and attendants sight unseen but there when you need them.
The place was rockin on Saturday night. In fact the whole water front was shakin'. There weren't many words of English spoken and that made us think that there is a sizeable class of people traveling from Spanish speaking countries, as well as the Argentinians who enjoy Saturday nite out on the town.
I would like to also comment on the traffic here. The cars and buses at night do not have good headlights. We can't figure it out. But you have to really be careful crossing the streets. the cars will aim for you! The pedestrian does not have the rightaway, even in the crosswalks.
There is something very hot going on in this country. You can feel it in the air. I read yesterday that they grew by 8% last year. That's a growing economy. We haven't figured out why this is still a third World nation. Yes, there are many poor people, but the desire and the evergy of the people is to be productive and get ahead, especially the young middle class. Hopefully they will see that change in their lifetime.
This morning at breakfast we come down at seven for coffee. We are suprised that the wedding party that started last night is just winding down. Beautiful women in high heels and well dressed men are filling out of the upstairs banquet room towards the street. They don't look that tired. I think this isn't an unusual site. I am pondering on how they can do it.
What a people and what a place!
Posted by sandra at 04:07 AM | Comments (0)
November 19, 2004
Food news from Mendoza Argentina
Today is going to be hot. The weather is turning to summer and this area is hot and dry. They are planting grapes everywhere and this spot in the World has a big future in the wine business. All of the fields are tended by hand....everything from turning the soil to choosing which grapes to harvest. The money is here and the facilities are as new and spotless as anything in Napa/Sonoma.
The food here is also on the cutting edge for the country. There are several spots we have tried that are all using local ingredients to create more contemporary cuisine.
The first is at the Park Hyatt Hotel which sits on the large central plaza. It is an old colonial building that has been completely renovated and has a very wonderful restaurant to rival anything in SF.
My husband thought the menu was in dollars..its in pesos. So when the bill came we were so amazed at the price. It costs 30 dollars to have an outstanding meal including a very exquisite bottle of wine. We had wonderful company from new friends. It was a great evening.
Speaking of new travel friends. There are so many great people out here traveling and every once in awhile you really hit it off with someone that you know you will see again. We met this great couple from NYC and it was just serendipitous. We traded travel secrets, had a long breakfast together and I feel like I made friends for life. He is a wine writer and she is a novelist. I wish they could edit my work!!
We had lunch while touring the wineries at Frances Mallman's place at Escorihuela Gaston Winery. Beautiful colonial old building with a pleasant outdoor walled garden and tile floors. The food and service were outstanding...we rated it an 8. And we are tough foodies to please.
The only way to get around this busy big town is by hiring a driver.
Don't drive and be careful crossing the street. We had a driver for the entire day and it costs 50$. Worth every cent because the wineries are spread over several growing areas and there is lots to see. We only touched on a few wineries. The first was San Felipe.
They have a tour in English, a wine museum that was very interesting,
and they are making some very good highend products, including a label called Rutini.
The next winery was Escorihuela where we had lunch, and then we headed East to Familia Zuccardi. This winery is amazing. It is owned by a local family that used to work the fields. We had a personal tour by Diego Marcos Salguero. What a great guy. They are in the process of turning the entire winery organic. I was so impressed with their facility. They have this beatiful architecture taking colonial ideas in a modern building using cement blocks, glass, tile and fine wood. They've built a restaurant in the vineyard where they serve lunch. Below the building are caves and a private tasting room. They are growing grapes as well as importing from other regions and countries and exporting all over the World.
Back to Mendoza. Things to do here. It is a town of trees and plazas. Each one has a fountain shaded benches and and a large variety of trees that are marked with their name. They have all kinds of popular trees that produce lots of shade for this warm summer climate. They have very little rain here and all the watering is done with a canal system that runs along the edge of the streets. There are shops and cafes serving typical food at reasonable prices. There are museums and historical buildings showing a past of the explorer San Martin. There are internet cafes everywhere with high speed access.
I like to watch the people. They hit the streets around 9am, working from 10 till 12:30, and then everything closes for siesta. They reopen at 4pm and stay open into the night. The evening meal starts at 10pm.
We went to a place called LA SAL, with a very hip goodlooking rising Chef. We were the only ones there until almost 11pm. By the time we left at 12 midnight the place was filling up. They had live tango music. What I loved about the place was that it was so unique. The style would never pass code in the states, with two floors overlooking a central floor area, ...possibly dancing later?
The Argentine people are friendly and very beautiful. They try to speak English but I always attempt my Spanish on them. It helps to speak some Spanish. Between Phillip and I we have a good intermediate knowledge and get by. It comes in handy.
Anyone in the wine business needs to come and see this area. It has just begun, even though they have been making wine for a long time.
They are on the move and will have more and more exposure into our markets. They make exceptional wines with great value. ...
Posted by sandra at 06:10 AM | Comments (0)
November 13, 2004
Buenos Aires is the place to be
It has been just over 24 hours since we landed in Buenos Aires, and we are in love with the city already.
The food is fantastic. From the corner coffee cafe where the pastries are eye candy, to the luxury French inspired restaurant, LOLA, we are indulging ourselves
and falling into the pace of the City and its people.
The coffee is strong and has depth. I had two cappuchinos at breakfast.
The first day we walked from our hotel, The Crillion, a few blocks to an area called Galeria Pacifico.
I needed a haircut and walked right into the chic spa Roberto Giordano and they took me right away. After a shampoo and a cut (very cool people watching) I sat at
a restaurant called Club Dodo and had a grilled chicken breast, salsa pico de gallo, small grilled potatoes with a tangy dressing for 12 pesos. That is about 4 dollars.
Argentina is a tremendous bargin. The dollar holds its' own here. There are people from all over the World visiting and the hotels are full. I don't see nearly as many Americans. It may be a long way to travel for vacation...but it is worth the ride.
Today we strolled the area of the Recolata, which is referred to as the Paris of So. America and ate on the Park at Lola, a very international restaurant with such cool people. The women were wearing big sunglasses and dressed to the 10's and smoking!! People are civilized and take all afternoon for lunch, many with large groups of family and friends. The wine here is some of the best.
We had broccoli soup, scallops with tomatoe, beef tenderloin with a scalloped potato dish, and green ravioli stuffed with king crab in saffron sauce. For dessert there was a Dulce de leche (a favorite dish)
and a chocolate something with soft toasted meringue.. like a baked alaska. WOW and wow again. I suggest this place when you come here to visit. Total bill with tip was under $50
Next we go to Mendoza, the wine country, and then to Uraguay to the beaches.
I could live here. This is New York and Paris rolled into one. The people are beautiful and friendly. Tomorrow night we dine with a family related to a friend in the US.
Posted by sandra at 03:34 PM | Comments (0)
November 10, 2004
The drive to San Miguel de Allende
First of all, don't do it in one day if you don't have to. We did!
It took almost 10 hours but we made it driving in the dark. We had to stop at one of our favorite towns, Compostela. If you have ever driven from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalahara it is right before you hit the toll highway after going over the mountain. This is a town untouched by tourist feet. The plaza is the Mexico you long for where people are just going through life day by day. The streets are spotless and there is a corner restaurant on the Plaza that serves the finest Mexican food, including banana milkshakes!! WOW. We stopped and sat in the Church and watched a Christining of the babies, days after observing Dios de Los Muertos...a religious festival that pays respect to the dead.
The Last time we were in this town we followed a funeral procession through the streets. These are wonderful moments that we don´´t seem to notice in our own country, but here they are big events.
On down the highway to San Miguel de Allende. The town has become a spot for the rich and famous but still retains its historical charm and beauty. What an amazing place. Street after street of colorful homes with beautiful carved doors and iron on the windows. The streets are cobblestone and there are at least four beautiful churches. All of this is tucked into the desert hillsides at over 6000ft in elevation.
We ate at one spectacular restaurant named Saffron. They make their version on a wonderful stuffed chili with pomegrante seeds, nuts and raisins that is a traditional dish in this area. I was stunned at the beautiful plate and the depth of the flavors. Phillip had a spinach salad that was equally interesting and light. The decor of the restaurant is very chic and modern and obviously fine dining has found SM Allende...and we couldn't be more satisfied.
Our Hotel, La Puerticita grew on us but got off on the wrong foot. It was very cold up on the mountain and the room was freezing! I heard that the creator of the inn had died a few years ago and his wife is running the business by herself. Over the few days that we stayed there it became evident that everyone was trying their best..they just weren't in sync. The pool was cold, the jacuzzi never heated up, the exercise room was out dated. Better to hike up the hill that it sits on. Which we did! The Inn is lovely had has a beautiful garden. Most of the people staying there were booked by tour groups.
the room rate is $168 per day...so its pricey. There seem to be many great clean small hotels in town that I would try next time.
So much more to tell...Would love to hear from anyone who passes this way..let me know you are out there!
Posted by sandra at 04:33 PM | Comments (0)
November 09, 2004
Welcome to my first blog entry
My hope is that all of you will enjoy following me and my husband, Phillip through our travels and give us some good feedback on places to see and restaraurants to visit along the way.
We will be giving you up todate information on the discoveries of our journey as it pertains to our industry. Restaurants and hotels seem to change constantly, so blogging seems like a great way to have a current travel guide book.
Our first journey was back to one of our favorite hotels, The El Camino Real in Puerto Vallarta. Guess what. The hotel was purchased by DREAM VACATIONS earlier this year. Say goodbye to the past, but the future is looking good for this old stylish hotel South of Town.
The new place is currently under renovation. The rooms should be completed by mid-December. The staff is under orders to make it work for the guests and it really shows. They are so friendly and accomodating. Even with a few bumps (our door key kept locking us out of our room and the plumbing was having a few problems while the construction was going on - which was from 7am till 10pm some nights) the
Hotel gave us great value and luxury for our stay.
Alejandro, a great young man from Mexico City, gave us Spanish lessons on the beach and by the pool. He was so helpful and took his teaching job very seriously. I picked up some new verbs and just had alot of fun talking to him.
Our morning breakfast staff were by far the most entertaining and gracious. Once they new we wanted to work on our Spanish they were always helping and playing with us. There was Carlos, the clown in the group, Fernando, Alberto, and Alejandro. These guys work so hard.
Their tips are pooled with the entire Hotel staff, as this is now an inclusive resort with all meals included in one price. We always tipped them separately. The Hotel was only 30% occupied due to construction, so we know these guys are having a tough time making it and they pick up other jobs at night to support their families. Sound familair?
There was a great concierge, Hector, who served as bell hop and any other hat that was necessary at the time. He logged people into the computer and grab the taxi and carried the bags. He spent three years, like almost all the staff did in the US learning the language and working hard and to return to their home country.
The food at the Hotel was above average. We had a great Mexican dinner the first night at Maria Bonita and met the young, self taught Chef who came out to our table. I had a killer stuffed Chile with scallops and shrimp in mole. And to think the entire bill was included.
They also include drinks and snacks at the beach, brought by food runners...all you want at your whim. The cost for this package is 150.00 per night. That's $75 per person. amazing value.
We ate in town at Marisma fish tacos almost everyday. This is the best taco in town and its' a tiny stand under a huge ficus tree run exclusively by her daughters and their friends. You get a fish taco for 110 pesos and shrimp for 120 pesos. Each one has a generous portion of fish plus shredded cabbage and this amazing secret sauce.
Also of note was Felipe's, an old family run place way up on the hill just South of town. We had a stunning view of the City with fireworks from the cruise boat and a Lobster/Shrimp platter for two that included crisp blanched and sauteed vegetable of broccoli, cauliflower, chayote and onion. I am so glad that Mexico is growing new vegetables. I had never seen Broccoli down here before. Phillip had the best pina colada he has ever tasted. It was one of those great restaurant experiences. The only thing of note is that it was very expensive. Equal to anything in SF. But worth every penny.
Posted by sandra at 09:04 AM | Comments (0)